Water Power
Run your car or bakkie on water with a HHO or HHOO generator.
You may e-mail me at
john@hydroxypower.co.za with questions, suggestions or if you
can help in any way.
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Water Power
Run your car or bakkie on water with a HHO or HHOO generator.
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How to build a basic hydrogen-on-demand wet cell. Keep it green with organic Septic Tank and Pit Latrine Treatments
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10 March 2012 I have recently been doing some interesting reading on a new electrolyte that produces not HHO or HHOO, but HHHN! It is said that the sensors do not see any oxygen and therefore no adjustments to the electronics are necessary. Here is an extract written by Dan Merrick, who has come up with one of the formulations of what is dubbed the "super fuel". This "fuel" is an ammonia electrolyte which makes Merrick's gas or (HHHN): "hhhn is not only more powerful but it is also a volume increase the hydrogen separates from the dipole nitrogen and any hydrogen that is free floating attach to nitrogen leaving the o2s to see just what we want it to. To understand it fully you must think outside the box . What is the true purpose of hhhn or hho it is not to run the car it is to change the fuel to burn quicker cleaner and yes cooler. Take a true hydrocarbon and hit it with a oh radical and it will shatter meaning youve made twice the fuel .The more of the big chains of true hydrocarbons the easier it is to shatter the carbons but we must also have enough hyd to fill back the carbons ends. This is where the ammonia comes into the picture. Always remember we want the good hyd meaning spinning the same way . The hyd will try to pare up quickly but the odd ball hyd will hook up to the oxyg making us a true radical which is what we need to crack the fuel.The only ways to crack fuel are pressure, heat , vacum, tension changing and hydrogen oxygen radicals with a catalyst. This is what we are doing and when we thermal catalyst crack with all the above youve built a refinery on wheels .Remember the engine does not need a fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1 as old timers were taught gas is different in a liquid form. Think ac vacum is liquid and pressure is gas Ive ran a 350 chev engine upto 150 to 1 so think outside the box. to lean can be done but when you understand the mixtures of true hydrocarbons you will succed. I will be coming out with a fuel reformer soon and it will amaze everyone . And for the ones asking about the ammonia it is not in the bubbler its in the cell it takes elec to break the bonds so we can recombine to hydrocarbons. For the ones that dont believe I want you to think a couple minutes and let this set in crude oil is thick how do you think we get gasoline or dsl out of it/? The answer is simple we crack it with hyd steam and a catalyst. Now if we can do this then what makes you think that we cant take gasoline or dsl and make even lighter fuel? They meaning the oil co have done the hard part so we start with that cleaner fuel now about what there putting into our fuel this can be beat but we must burn and controll the fuel in small quantaties to eleminate the coking build up they want us to have. Who do you think makes the fuel cleaners oil co and dont forget it comes from crude also . They have a win win bit not for long." Those who sell this electrolyte state that you have to space the plates 1/8" or 3mm apart to slow down the rate of corrosion. They also state that it works best in dry cells with 316ss or better. However, the answers to my questions and from what I have investigated so far I get the idea that this electrolyte may perhaps not be as corrosive as Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). I stand corrected. And what does this electrolyte consist of? Here is one garbled version "10 per ammonia 1500mlg i buprofin not generaic crusshed to a fine powder dissolved fully in the ammonia hydroxide the 1 third of a gal white vinegar this will help neutralize the ammonia alittle the rest distilled water toushould have a total of 2 gal liquid when done". Another better explanation "1/3 ammonia 10%, 1/3 distilled water, 1/3 white vinegar, 1500 m/g Ibuprofen". The ammonia that is used is ammonia hydroxide. When I queried the brufen (or ibuprofen or nurofen) it seems that this anti-inflammatory is indeed part of the mix! It is stated that this electrolyte results in more gas at lower amps. I am keen to try this in my dry cell and especially to see if the MAP sensor in fact does not read any of the gas coming from the electrolyser. I must build another reservoir first as the end-cap on the bottom continues to leak. A new end-cap costs in the region of R54/R57. I thought I'd include a write-up from the http://moregowithhho.com/ website which besides the normal blurb also gives a bit of insight into how the new electrolyte works: "Our
new "Super Fuel" electrolyte produces a super gas which is, at a molecular
Can't wait to try it! I mixed up a batch of electrolyte according to quantities provided by a fellow Australian enthusiast on the http://hhoinformation.com which he listed as follows: 3.785 Liters (AU) of 10% Ammonium hydroxide or 1.514 Liters (AU) of 40% Ammonium hydroxide 1.26 Liters (AU) of White Vinegar 1500 grams of Nurofen (ibuprofen) 2.525 Liters of distilled water if its 10% Ammonium Hydroxide or 4.796 Liters of distilled water if its 40% Ammonium Hydroxide. My cell and reservoir can only hold about 2,5l of fluid so I divided the quantities by 5 to give me just over 1,5l of electrolyte. On the bench I connected my cell to my computer power supply which puts out just over 11V. The analog ammeter's needle barely moved over the zero mark and the cell was producing so little gas that it was like watching paint dry! I connected the cell to my car and it managed to pull 2A but the gas output was so low I didn't bother to measure it, I guess it was less than 100ml per minute. Please excuse the poor quality of the photos. Here the cell is simply standing on the lip of the open boot for convenience and purposes of testing.
Not much bubbling action.
I will run it in the car tomorrow and see if this amount of gas does anything. I must source boric acid so that I can up the amperage. A fellow enthusiast from the Cape, Hans, has shared a lot of information with me (thank you Hans!) and I will be following up on this to see if a better result for HNNN gas output can be obtained. I wasn't happy about the low production and I am still looking for a source of Boric Acid to up the amperage. In the mean time I thought I'd play with the formula and so I reduced the quantity of distilled water by 600ml and I increased the Ammonium Hydroxide by 300ml and the white vinegar also by 300ml, which keeps the total volume of electrolyte at 1,5l. The cell now pulls about 2,3A and gas output is 100ml per minute. Bummer, I found that the reservoir was leaking gas. I decided to build a new one with new materials instead of recycling. I was very happy to eventually acquire small plastic fittings barbed one end and threaded on the other. The inside of the end cap. The anti-splash guard in the middle for the gas-out line. The hole on the left is for the for filling access and the bottom one is the gas and electrolyte-in port.
The outside of the end cap.
The anti-splash guard fully assembled. With the gas/electrolyte inlet tube fitted. I added this tube so that the incoming electrolyte would be directed past the gas-out fitting to try eliminate any possibility of electrolyte going out the gas outlet (to the first scrubber).
The bottom of the reservoir with the fitting for the electrolyte return to the cell.
The assembled reservoir. 110mm diameter and 300mm long.
The one explanation of the "super fuel" electrolyte states that the generic of ibuprofen must not be used. I checked with my pharmacist and I was informed that the generic as well as the original tablet had the same active ingredient. They both also contain a sugar coating. I first dissolved the sugar coating away by holding it under running water, before dissolving it in the distilled water. The generic version of this tablet costs about R5.00 for 10 tablets (400mg strength), however, the original (eg. Nurofen) costs almost R25.00 for the same quantity and strength! Ja boet... I will hook up the new reservoir tomorrow and run the system with my adaptation of the formula. The cell produces just on 100ml per minute at just over 2A. However within days the amperage drops and so does the gas output. I have been told that some people have gained no benefit from adding Boric Acid so I have also decided against exploring that route any further for upping the amperage. Hans told me about the benefits of using Potassium Carbonate as an electrolyte but this is not locally available (not here on the South Coast anyways). It'll have to wait for the next time I go to Durban where I should be able to get it. So, until I can get hold of a better electrolyte I have reverted back to Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). I first had to thoroughly flush the cell, reservoir as well as the 2 scrubbers. As much as I like the principle of introducing more oxygen to the engine to improve the burn (a principle proven by Eddie Batista), I decided to revert to a conventional setup to decrease the oxygen and increase the hydrogen (as so many other enthusiasts are doing) by running the cell configured -nnnnn+nnnnn-. I'm hoping that this will actually give more hydrogen and that the MAP sensor won't mind the limited oxygen. Only time will tell. At 7,1A the gas output is approximately 470ml per minute. I used about 4 small teaspoons of KOH to about 1,5 liters of tap water. My measuring bottle is graded in 50ml increments, so I had to guess the actual level. Tomorrow I will flush the whole system again because I now want to see the difference, if any, distilled water makes (instead of tap water). I mounted a cpu fan with cooling fins on the side of the cell to help control the temperature. At this amperage the cell should be able to run for quite a while before the temperature starts to ramp up. Here is the setup mounted in the boot. The scrubber still has to come in which I mount next to the cell, held in place with a bungie cord.
After I have changed the electrolyte I will try to get the amperage close to what it is now and run the setup like this for a while and see what happens. I have forgone changing the electrolyte (using distilled water instead of tap water) for now because of the schlepp. But I decided to play around with a few other factors. I decided to feed the gas directly into the intake manifold as I did on a previous occasion. Although I have 2 scrubbers inline, I decided on a further measure to prevent any unwanted electrolyte getting into the engine. I have an ancient fuel filter/regulator from which I removed the filter. I then connected it between the 2nd scrubber and the intake manifold. I placed a piece of perspex behind the filter to show it properly.
Where the reinforced hose comes out on the left of the photo is where the tubing was previously routed down to the bottom of the air filter. It now runs directly to the old fuel filter which fits snuggly in a spot just above the air filter.
The tube from the old fuel filter gas-out connects onto the fitting which I had left in place from a previous set-up. At first I was worried about the slight restriction that the filter may place on the flow of gas because the fittings on the filter are much narrower than the 8mm id tubing that I use. I used 6mm id tubing to connect the filter and these splice into the 8mm id tubing. You can see the one splice just above the yellow cap of the brake fluid reservoir. These connections are leak proof. But with the gas feeding directly into the intake manifold there is quite a bit of vacuum there so this should help pull the gas out of the old fuel filter, if this should be an issue.
The complete setup in the boot with the 1st scrubber in place. Because of the height of the cell and reservoir setup these can only fit in if tilted at an angle. The scrubber however is standing straight up.
The cell now runs at 8,1A and the gas output is 520ml per minute. The MAP sensor reads the additional oxygen which is pumped in from the cell and then does a number of stupid things to “protect” the engine, all of which result in more petrol being consumed rather than less. By resetting or wiping the MAP memory the system is perhaps more inclined to accept a little additional oxygen. On the HHO information forum I read that the memory could be reset by disconnecting both the negative and positive battery leads and then shorting these leads out for 10 minutes. On another forum some time ago I read that it was sufficient to disconnect the lead off only the negative terminal for 30 minutes to reset the memory. This last method I have tried on many occasions with no success. So today I disconnected both leads and shorted them out for about 25 minutes. With the cell pulling 8,1A and pushing 520ml HHO per minute I have seen no signs so far that the MAP sensor is rebelling yet. Previously running HHOO and using the first mentioned method of trying to reset the memory resulted in the MAP immediately responding by making the engine rev up and down in the 1,5 - 2k range as if the accelerator was being constantly tapped. Alternately on other occasions it would just constantly rev in the 2 - 2,5k range. The only way I could then get the engine to rev normally was to switch it off for a few seconds before restarting. However on 2 short runs after resetting the memory this afternoon there was no such sign that the MAP had a problem! So far this is positive but only time on the road will reveal whether the MAP is now more accepting of the additional oxygen or not. After running the setup as HHO for a while, I cannot say that I have noticed anything different with the way the engine pulls. I don't have the money to fill up the tank regularly so I haven't been able to measure economy, but I don't expect it to have changed. Today I measured the output from a cold start and at 8,9A the HHO output was 550ml per minute (HHO configuration -nnnnn+nnnnn-). I then switched the configuration to HHOO (+nnnnn-nnnnn+) and the cell then only pulled 8A with output at 500ml per minute. I presume that once it has run-in with this configuration the output should improve. I have been investigating and researching the MAP sensor on my car and it seems that it is actually a MAF sensor (I stand corrected). It incorporates an intake temperature sensor with the manifold pressure sensor. It seems that just by manipulating the signal from the temperature sensor you can already get good gains. There are a number of sites and forums on the net where people testify to this fact (it must be true if you've seen it on the net, right? Ja boet...). I tried to get hold of a VW technician who could tell me which of the 4 wires into the sensor were for the temperature sensor. It is amazing how many technicians prefer either not to disclose this information or they just don't know! The one became totally confused when I told him that there was no separate temperature sensor by the air intake. I eventually found an auto-electrician at one of the Durban VW service centers who without hesitation told me what colour these 2 wires were. I was gratified to see that they were the same 2 wires that I had identified some time ago when I connected the "MAP" enhancer. I haven't run the enhancer for a while so I had a look at it to see if all was still okay. I found that the pot had seized, probably as a result of some water that had leaked via the trunking for the wiring. I had another type of pot available, also a 25 turn 10k, already with a resistor connected to it. I can't remember what the value is.
Please excuse the poor focus but I can't get my phone camera to focus where I want it to. I went through the process of disconnecting both the battery leads and shorting them out to blank out the ecu memory. After reconnecting the leads I switched off the electrolyser and with the pot set far left (i.e. no alteration to the sensor), I started the engine. I then turned the pot all the way to the right and immediately the engine started running rough. I slowly turned it back until the point where it just started to run smoothly. Later with the electrolyser running I took a short drive and it was very gratifying to feel the car pulling better than what it has in a long time! I am looking forward to finding out whether this is the "sweet spot"! I just wish that I had the funds to be able to fill up on a regular basis. I must also mention that all my testing is done with the aircon running (I run it 24/7). So, the resultant + 5% loss in power must first be made up by the electrolyser before any real gains can be measured. This means that the figures of any gains are very much on the conservative side.
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The information presented on this website is for you to look at, learn from, laugh at, or whatever. But if you try anything that you see here it is at your own risk. I will not take responsibility for your stupidity should something go wrong. |
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